This Sleeping Bag Pack How to comes with a free pdf pattern. You can make a back pack that turn into a sleeping bag! Perfect for trips to grandma’s, sleep overs, day camp and more! The sleeping bag pack comes with extra pockets to hold pj’s, books, and treats.
This pattern is very involved so please read through all the directions a couple of times before beginning.
The current pattern the finished size is 32 inches wide by 50 inches tall. This will fit a toddler to a 5 year old comfortably.
The back pack section has room the hold a larger size. I will be adding an “expansion kit” to make the sleeping bag section larger- be sure to sign up for the newsletter to know when that is added.
You will have left over scraps with this pattern that can be made to make pants, hats, and scarves – make your child a whole coordinated outfit.
Please note that you will be sewing through very thick layers. This project requires a sturdy machine – it will not work with feather weights.
For this project you will need the following:
The Free .pdf pattern printed up and assembled (you can download the pattern by clicking the pattern envelope below)
1 1/2 yards Jersey Knit
1 2/3 fleece (color 1)
1 1/2 fleece (color 2)
3 inches sew on velcro
1 1/2 quilt batting or crib quilt size package
You will also need a large cutting surface – like an empty counter top or tile floor.
Download the free pattern here, tutorial below.
Video Tutorial Here, Written Below:
Sleeping Bag Pack How to
Step 1 – Assemble and Cut Out the Pattern
This pattern is very large. Assembly will take some time. It’s important that you take your time to assemble the pattern nicely for a good result. You can find a video and written instructions on how to assemble a pattern here. Be sure to use enough tape to make the pattern sturdy.
You will need to cut the following:
From Fleece Color 2 cut:
1 Child sleeping bag pack base
2 Child sleeping bag pack shoulder straps
1 of the outside pocket
1 pocket holder (note: I used a contrasting scrap in the example)
From the batting cut:
1 of the bag pack base
From the Jersey Knit cut:
1 of the bag pack base
Then you will cut down the base to the blanket line
From Fleece Color 1 cut:
1 of the blanket
1 of the top hatch
1 of the main compartment
Again you will have plenty of large scraps to make other projects out of.
Step 2 – Begin to make prep pieces to the bag pack
We’ll be leaving several raw edges on the bag pack. To keep the pieces fron stretching and getting mishapen, run a zig sag stitch (or other deorative stitch) along the edges of the top hatch, the top of the pocket holder and the outside pocket, the top of te main compartment and the blanket.
Step 3 – Begin to make the outside pocket
Place the outside pocket right side to the wrong side of the pocket holder. sew around threee sides (leaving the curved side open) using a .5 inch seam allowance. Troim corners. Turn right side out. Optional – using a marking pen mark down the middle of the outside pocket and topstich down the front tof the pocket to make two small pockets.
Step 3 – Add the Velcro
Sew on a three inch segment of Velcro onto the right side of the pocket holder. Sew the other half onto the wrong side of the top hatch (see picture) If you want a button on the top hatch sew it onto the right side at this time.
Step 4 – Make the Straps
Place the two strap pieces wrong sides together. Pin. Sew each side using a .5 seam allowance. Using a safety pin turn long tube right side out. Flatten out as best you can, then top stitch down the middle of the strap. Set aside.
Step 5 – Attach the Pocket to the Main Compartment
Place the pocket onto the right side of the main compartment (this will be the body of the bag pack) The Pocket is places just below the curve and should end before the angled slits in the bottom. pin. Top stitch .25 from the edge of the pocket around three sides (leaving the top open) to attach the pocket to the compartment.
Step 6 – Make the Main Compartment 3d
Taking the bottom inside pieces (see image) place them right sides together and using a 1 1/2 seam allowance (approx) . You may just want to draw a line on the fabric and follow that. Sew another seam .25 inches inside that one for extra enforcement.
Step 7 – Prep the back pack for mounting
To give the back pack part (main compartment) more shape we are reinforcing the sides. Fold excess tab in half and sew down the middle of the fold using a straight stitch.
Step 8 – place straps on to the fleece base (fleece color 2)
Using the pocket holder as a guide, place is on the right side of the fleece base (color2). Center it. Taking the long strap piece fold it in half, place the middle at the top center of the pocket holder. Bring the straps to each corner and pin.
Using a straight stitch sew on the ends and center of the straps.
Note: The straps are long if you leave them the length they are it will work for an older child 10 -12, but for a younger child you will want to cut off 3.5 inches from each side.
Step 9 – Add the top hatch
Now it’s time to add the top hatch section. Again using the pocket holder as a guide, place the hatch as shown in the picture. Note that right side is facing down. Hatch will sit on the folded section of the straps. Pin well. With wrong side of hatch fabric facing up sew on .25 inches from the edge, and then sew again .25 inches from the seam you just sewed for extra reinforcement.
Step 10 – Add the main compartment to the Base
Now It’s time to add the back pack body (main compartment) to the base.
Pin the straps and the hatch so they are out of the way.
Please note: We are making the back pack section inside out on purpose. Remember quillows? This pattern operates on the same principle. But instead of making a simple picket we’re making a back pack to hold the sleeping bag in.
Using the pocket holder as a guide, lay the main compartment down onto the base. The top should be at the hatch the bottom that we sewed closed should be placed on the edge of the base. It should be puffy (it’s 3d now) and lay perfectly flat. Pin well and sew on using a .25 seam allowance from the edge along the sides and bottom. Then sew again using a .25 inch allowance from the seam you just made. Test out your sleeping bag pack. Fold up the base blanket into thirds width wise, then into thirds again(making sure the sleeping bag pack is on top, flip it right side out, stuff the base into the main compartment. It should look like a back pack and the hat should attach to the front. It’s very important to make sure that this is functioning properly before proceeding.
Step 11 – Begin to build the sleeping bag section
Unfold the bag pack, lay out the base so the main compartment is facing you.
Time to make a sleeping bag sandwich. Pin the main compartment so the bottom is out of the way and the hatch is tucked into the compartment.
Next place the blanket ( fleece color 1) on the base. Right side facing down. Pin the bottom and the side ( the side that doesn’t have a curved corner) to the base, then pin the top and the side with the curved corner back out of the way so it doesn’t get stuck in the seam allowance.
Next place the Jersey knit base on top of the blanket and the base, right side facing down.
Then Place the batting on top of the jersey knit. Pin around the edges well. Leave a 6 – 10 inch gap on the side where the blanket meets the base for turning.
Step 12 – Sew the Sandwich together.
I cannot stress this enough. Take your time! You are dealing with a lot of layers. Make sure that base layer stays flat. Using a .5 inch seam allowance sew all the way around the sleeping bag, leaving a 6- 10 inch gap open.
Snip little slits into corner ( taking care not to cut through seam). Turn right side out.
Step 13 – Hand sew the gap closed
Since we left the gap where the blanket is we can hide our stitches. Taking a needs and thread stitch shut the gap, sewing between the blanket the jersey base.
Step 14 – Finishing up
I know. It looks amazing, you can wait to get your little one in it. Just a couple more steps to make it extra durable. If desired top stitch around the base ( .25 – .5 ) This will give extra reinforcement for the batting layer and gives the edges a nice look. Again slow because it’s a lot of layers.
Once that is completed we will need to add some stabilizing stitches to the base. Lay the sleeping bar pack out flat Using the quilting guide (turned so it’s a diamond shape). pin at each corner, then either by hand or machine, tack down bag at pins so batting won’t tear. Be care ful not to sew through the pack pack section – do that by hand. You’re finished!