You can make a fashionable wardrobe staple with this cowl capelet free pattern and tutorial. This fashionable capelet can be made with an extra thick collar for warmth. This classic looking piece had and asymmetrical bottom and wonderfully over-sized collar. The pattern is fairly simple – an experienced sewer can make this under an hour easily.
Materials you will need:
1 and 1/2 yards fleece (depending on size of pattern and if you double the collar or not)
Assembled printed pattern
Download the free pattern here. tutorial below!
Get the video tutorial here, written instructions below:
1 – Assemble and cut out the Pattern
You can find instructions on how to assemble the pattern here.
You will need to decide if you want to make a thick collar (double sided) or a thin collar (single sided). The thick collar is good for late fall early winter, it can be quite warm. For early fall I recommend using only 1 layer for the collar.
(Double layered collar is pictured)
On folded cloth cut 2 the main capelet. Then take the pattern and trim it down to the dotted line. Then take one of the pieced you just cut out and repin the pattern guide to it. then trim down to match. ou should now have one piece that it straight on top and one that has an inward curve.
If you are cutting out a double sided collar cut 2 of front cowl (with curve). If you are making a single thickness collar just cut 1.
Then trim pattern to dotted line and cut 2 for back cowl (double thickness) or 1 (single thickness).
You should have 1 front piece of the capelet (with inward curve on top), One back piece (with straight line across the top).
For the cowl you should have the front and back pieces to it (you with either have 1 or 2 pieces of each. depending if you are making a thick collar or not)
2 – Pin and sew cape section
With right sides together pin the front and back sections of the main cape section together at the sides leaving the top and bottom open (pin and sew yellow on diagram). Then sew together using a .5 seam allowance along the sides. Set piece aside.
3 – Begin to make the collar (double thick)
Once you have sewn the two front pieces together and the two back pieces together its time to bring the whole collar together. With right sides together Pin – matching up at the seam you just sewed. Sew the front to the back of the cowl (see yellow line in diagram to the right). then sew the other side (green line) with right sides together. This should make a large tube.
Trim the bulkiest seam points (where they intersect) so cowl won’t be lumpy.
Then fold cowl in half – along the first seam you made (the one at the top of the pattern piece at the widest part of the collar). Wrong sides together, matching the curved edges. Basically doubling over on itself. Now there should only be right sides facing out and the only raw edge is along the bottom of the collar.
Baste the around the bottom of the collar using a .25 seam. This will help keep everything smooth when you place the cowl on the capelet.
3B-Begin to make the Collar (single thick)
For a collar with single thickness,with right sides together, sew the front and back cowl pieces to each other, using a .5 seam allowance. First the yellow line., then the green forming a tube.
Then turn under the top of the cowl .5 inches and sew using a zig zag stitch along the edge all the way around (starting at a seam point)
4 – Attach cowl to capelet
Attach the cowl bottom (green line) to the top of the capelet – yellow line) make sure the front of the cowl is with the front of the capelet (curve meets curve). Pin with right side to wrong side of fabric (the seam will be on the outside of the capelet and hidden by the cowl)Then sew cowl to capelet using a .5 seam allowance – take you time and be aware that you are dealing with many layers of thick fabric (especially if it’s a doubly thick collar)
Optional – Last step turn under the bottom of the capelet .5 inches and sew using a a zig zag stitch along the edge of the fabric to finish off the bottom.
Trim your threads and you’re finished!